Dharamkot Travel Guide 2026: Upper vs Lower, Tushita, Gallu Devi & Where to Stay

Dharamkot is a hillside village at roughly 2,100 m, about 3 km above McLeod Ganj, known for three things: meditation (Tushita and the Dhamma Sikhara Vipassana centre are here), the Triund trek (the trail starts at Gallu Devi temple just above the village), and a long-running backpacker and long-stay scene of cafes, yoga shalas and cheap guesthouses that has been popular with Israeli travellers for decades. It is quieter and more forested than McLeod Ganj, with better mountain views, but the lanes are steep and many rooms can only be reached on foot.

Below we explain the difference between Upper and Lower Dharamkot, how Tushita and Vipassana courses work, how to start Triund from here, where to eat and stay, the best seasons and the tips that make a stay here genuinely peaceful. Prices are approx. as of 2026.

Quick facts

Upper vs Lower Dharamkot

Locals do not always draw a hard line, but travellers usually mean this:

The central part of the village, around the small square where taxis drop, has a few shops, cafes and a general store. From there, lanes fan out uphill.

Tushita Meditation Centre

Tushita is a Tibetan Buddhist meditation centre in the forest at the lower end of Dharamkot, affiliated with the FPMT (Foundation for the Preservation of the Mahayana Tradition). It is best known for its introductory Buddhism and meditation courses taught in English, which have been the first step into Buddhist practice for thousands of travellers.

What to know:

• Courses are residential and usually include periods of silence. Expect a structured schedule from early morning to evening, simple vegetarian meals and dorm or shared rooms.
• Places fill fast, especially in spring and autumn. Registration methods and dates change, so check Tushita's official website well before your trip.
• Drop-in sessions such as guided meditation have been offered at some times of year. Check the current schedule on the website or at the gate.
• Respect the silence. Even if you are just walking past, keep voices down near the centre.

Dhamma Sikhara (Vipassana)

Dhamma Sikhara, the Himachal Vipassana Centre, sits just below Tushita. It runs the standard 10-day silent Vipassana courses in the tradition of S.N. Goenka.

• Courses are run entirely on donations; there is no fee, and you donate at the end only if you wish.
• You must apply in advance through the official Vipassana (dhamma.org) booking system. Walk-ins are not accepted.
• You commit to the full 10 days: no phones, reading, writing or talking.
• Courses can be fully booked months ahead in peak season, so apply as early as possible.

Our meditation and yoga retreats guide compares these with other options around McLeod Ganj.

Gallu Devi and the Triund trail

The Gallu Devi temple sits above Upper Dharamkot at around 2,150 m, and this is where most people start the Triund trek. From Gallu Devi it is roughly 6 to 7 km to the top, climbing to about 2,850 m, which takes most fit walkers 3 to 4 hours up.

• Getting to Gallu Devi: taxis can usually drive up close to the temple from Dharamkot; otherwise it is a 20 to 30 minute uphill walk from the village.
• Start early. Leave by 7 to 8 am to reach the top by late morning, when the views are clearest, and be back before dark.
• Snacks and water are sold at a few points on the trail in season, at higher prices. Carry your own water.
• Check the latest rules for camping, overnight stays and any trekking fees before you go; they have changed in recent years.

Full details are in our Triund trek complete guide and our Triund camping guide. You can also book a guided Triund trek or browse all treks.

The Israeli backpacker scene

For decades Dharamkot has been one of the main stops on the Israeli backpacker trail in India, alongside Kasol and Bhagsu. In practice this means:

• Menus in Hebrew and English, and plenty of shakshuka, hummus, falafel, sabich and labneh.
• A Chabad House has long operated in the village, hosting Shabbat dinners in season.
• Busy spring and autumn seasons, often linked to travellers after military service. Numbers drop sharply in the monsoon and winter.

It is a friendly, international scene, and travellers of every background stay in Dharamkot. If you want to avoid the busiest stretch, stay in Lower Dharamkot or visit in the shoulder months.

Cafes, food and evenings

Dharamkot's cafes are the main social life: floor cushions, slow Wi-Fi, long breakfasts and occasional jam sessions. Expect:

Many cafes are seasonal and change names or owners between years, so the best approach is to walk the lanes and look for places that are busy with long-stay travellers. Dharamkot is not a nightlife destination; most places close by 10 to 11 pm and the village is quiet afterwards. For more choice, head down to McLeod Ganj: see our cafes guide.

Where to stay: hostels, guesthouses and homestays

Dharamkot has some of the area's best-value long-stay accommodation.

Choosing well:

• Check access before booking. Ask how many steps from the nearest road. With luggage, 10 minutes of uphill steps is a lot.
• Ask about hot water and heating if you are visiting between November and March.
• Ask about Wi-Fi if you need to work; mobile data can be patchy in parts of the village. Our digital nomad guide has more.

Browse rooms on our hotels page and our Dharamkot destination page.

How to get to Dharamkot

• From McLeod Ganj by taxi: about 3 km on a narrow road, 10 to 15 minutes, approx. ₹200 to ₹350.
• On foot from McLeod Ganj: 40 to 60 minutes uphill via footpaths past the Tushita area or via the road.
• From Bhagsu: a steep footpath connects the two villages in 30 to 40 minutes.
• From Kangra Airport or Dharamshala: book a direct transfer through our taxi service; drivers know the drop points.

Best time to visit

Dharamkot sees snow more often than McLeod Ganj in a good winter. See Dharamshala in winter.

Insider tips for a quiet stay

1. Stay away from the main cafe cluster if you are a light sleeper; the forested lower lanes are much quieter.
2. Walk early. The forest paths between Dharamkot, Tushita and McLeod Ganj are beautiful at 7 am and nearly empty.
3. Carry a torch. Lanes are dark at night and uneven.
4. Bring cash from McLeod Ganj. Small shops may not take cards, and UPI fails when the network drops.
5. Keep food away from monkeys and close windows when you go out.
6. Do not leave rubbish on trails. Carry it back down; waste management is a real problem here.

What to skip

• Booking a room you have not checked for access if you have heavy luggage or knee problems.
• Trying Triund in the afternoon. Starting late means rushing down in the dark.
• Expecting nightlife. Head to McLeod Ganj for that.
• Turning up at Tushita or Vipassana without registering. Courses are booked in advance.

Plan the rest of your trip

Combine Dharamkot with a Bhagsu stay or day, the Dalai Lama Temple in McLeod Ganj and our list of things to do in McLeod Ganj. Questions on bookings or transfers? See our FAQ.